I don't know how much help I will be but I can give you some information that might at least get you started.
1. I don't know what that is, but circuit malfunction can be a bad fuse, disconnected component, crappy connection, or a bad ground, could also be a bad component.
2. It is possible that you have a single wheel speed sensor for the back two tires and if so it is likely located at the top of the rear diff. It would serve dual purpose for the Rear ABS, and the Vehicle Speed Sensor VSS. About a $20 part, one bolt, and no adjustment needed.
3. You probably disconnected the battery, which cleared codes and the fuel trim tables, and hadn't driven it enough.
4. Bank1 is the same side that plug number one is located. sensor one is before the cat, sensor two is after the cat.
WHen the engine is first started there is power to heat the O2 sensor so that it can start taking readings sooner. there may be a fuse for HEGO if so check it.
Running rich... check for a vacuum leak.
5. self explanatory.
How to check fuses http://www.ford-forums.com/electrica...tml#post125472 How to check a ground http://www.ford-forums.com/electrica...html#post75808 Tips for Checking for vacuum leaks.
Some of the sensors and some of the actuators either read the amount of vacuum, or use vacuum to move controls, therefore it is important to the proper functioning of the engine that your vacuum system is fully intact. Otherwise one may get codes falsely indicating that there is a problem with a controller/actuator, or a sensor when in reality it is caused by a lack of vacuum.
Look at your rubber vacuum hoses (they are about 1/4 - 3/8 inches in diameter, if they are dry rotted or cracked, replace them. IF they slip on/off of their connectors too easily, they may have stretched out a little bit, cut the ends off, and put them back on.
You may listen for a leak. Sometimes using a cut off piece of garden hose is a good aid to listen with. Sometimes a cardboard tube (like from gift wrapping paper) is helpful. Just remember that whenever you stick your head inside a running engine compartment, that you are not wearing any loose clothing or jewelry that can get caught.
Another suggestion is to use a spray can of carb cleaner and spray around the bottom of the intake manifold, and the base of the throttle body assembly. IF there is a leak, you should hear a change in your engine.
Keep a fire extinguisher handy, or use water instead of carb cleaner (it works, but not as well.) Be aware that if you use water and the wires get wet and it runs worse... your wires may be bad, and the water is allowing them to arc instead of jump the gap of the spark plug.
Another suggestion is: to take a propane torch, turn it on (but don't light it) and move it over the vacuum hoses and connections. The engine RPM's will increase if there is a leak and the propane gets sucked in.
Courtesy of TheOldWizard ford-forums... Don't forget to remind folks to check the PCV valve, hose and grommet !
Courtesy Ramnasal ford-forums... Clamp off the hose that runs to the vacuum booster (brake booster) or pull it and plug it. It is possible that the diaphram on the inside of the booster may go bad and cause a vacuum leak.
And one more place that is not always obvious is that the vacuum reserve canister in older vehicles sometimes rots out and leaks, but rarely gets checked. In older vehicles it looks like a metal juice can, in newer vehicles it is made of plastic.
Here are some pictures of some vacuum lines in a 1998 3.8L windstar. Ford Forums - BroncoJoe19's Album: 3.8L vacuum lines
NEED Serious Tech Help!!! with A 1999 Ford Ranger XLT SuperCab 4x4 sport, 3.0, auto 
Linear Mode
