2.3 engine idling fast

[ronsmiths]

Hello all. I have a 1997 ranger with a maual tranny, my prpblem is that when
i am driving it always stays at a high idile (3000 rpms) when i shift gears or even when i let it coast out of gear and with the clutch out, It will only come down to a low idile (1100) when the truck comes to a stop. :confused5
Thanks for any help. Ron

[93ranger_danger]

check the throtle body and adjust the idle pin

[BroncoJoe19]

check the throtle body and adjust the idle pin
That's only a last resort.

High idle is often a vacuum leak,, dirty IAC, or faulty TPS.

What does the IAC do? How does it work?
Ford Fuel Injection » Idle Air Bypass (IAB)
Check and clean your IAC
Ford Explorer IAC Fix .: Articles

Tips for Checking for vacuum leaks.
Some of the sensors and some of the actuators either read the amount of vacuum, or use vacuum to move controls, therefore it is important to the proper functioning of the engine that your vacuum system is fully intact. Otherwise one may get codes falsely indicating that there is a problem with a controller/actuator, or a sensor when in reality it is caused by a lack of vacuum.

Look at your rubber vacuum hoses (they are about 1/4 - 3/8 inches in diameter, if they are dry rotted or cracked, replace them. IF they slip on/off of their connectors too easily, they may have stretched out a little bit, cut the ends off, and put them back on.

You may listen for a leak. Sometimes using a cut off piece of garden hose is a good aid to listen with. Sometimes a cardboard tube (like from gift wrapping paper) is helpful. Just remember that whenever you stick your head inside a running engine compartment, that you are not wearing any loose clothing or jewelry that can get caught.

Another suggestion is to use a spray can of carb cleaner and spray around the bottom of the intake manifold, and the base of the throttle body assembly. IF there is a leak, you should hear a change in your engine.
Keep a fire extinguisher handy, or use water instead of carb cleaner (it works, but not as well.) Be aware that if you use water and the wires get wet and it runs worse... your wires may be bad, and the water is allowing them to arc instead of jump the gap of the spark plug.

Another suggestion is: to take a propane torch, turn it on (but don't light it) and move it over the vacuum hoses and connections. The engine RPM's will increase if there is a leak and the propane gets sucked in.

Courtesy of TheOldWizard ford-forums... Don't forget to remind folks to check the PCV valve, hose and grommet !

Courtesy Ramnasal ford-forums... Clamp off the hose that runs to the vacuum booster (brake booster) or pull it and plug it. It is possible that the diaphram on the inside of the booster may go bad and cause a vacuum leak.

And one more place that is not always obvious is that the vacuum reserve canister in older vehicles sometimes rots out and leaks, but rarely gets checked. In older vehicles it looks like a metal juice can, in newer vehicles it is made of plastic.

Here are some pictures of some vacuum lines in a 1998 3.8L windstar.
Ford Forums - BroncoJoe19's Album: 3.8L vacuum lines

[theoldwizard]

Originally Posted by ronsmiths

Hello all. I have a 1997 ranger with a maual tranny, my prpblem is that when
i am driving it always stays at a high idile (3000 rpms) when i shift gears or even when i let it coast out of gear and with the clutch out, It will only come down to a low idile (1100) when the truck comes to a stop. :confused5

You are sort of contradicting yourself. First you say "always stays high (3000 rpm)", then you say it "goes back to normal at idle" when the truck comes to a stop.

First, any check engine lights ?

Next, on a nice flat road with no traffic and and on stoplights, get up to speed and put the clutch in (but leave trans in gear) and hold in there for about 30 seconds. What do you get ?

Next, same thing, but this time, shift into neutral and leave it there for 30 seconds. What do you get ?

I have to know the answer to these before proceeding.

[ronsmiths]

Ok here it is, I took the truck out on the road and got it up to 80 kms, then I took my foot of the gas and let it coast on a almost flat peice of road with the clutch held to the floor and the rpm stayed at 3000 rpms. then I did the same thing again, only this time i put the tranny in nutreal and let the clutch out and got the same out come, 3000 rpms. Then I tried it on a light sloop down hill, I stoped the truck to let the rpms come down to 1000. Then I put the tranny in nurteal and let the clutch out and took my foot of the paddle and slowly took my foot of the break. The truck started to coast slowly, it only got up to 3 kms ( about 2 miles an hour ) when the rpm started to go up to 2500, Hope this will help, would love to find out the problem.
There is no check engine on.
..........Thanks alot Ron

[theoldwizard]

Follow Joe's instructions

[lasvegasharley]

had same symptoms. replaced the IAC valve (Idle Air Control) 40 dollars at autozone. fixed my problem.


same topic here
http://www.ford-forums.com/ford-rang...-problems.html

Originally Posted by lasvegasharley

I just thought I would post my experience. Problem was solved by a new Idle Air Control valve from autozone ($40.00).

I have a 1997 2wd Ford Ranger XLT with a 2.3l. I was having issues of the idle RPM hanging high around 2000 to 3000 RPM (sometimes higher). It would happen when fully warmed up and coming to a stop with the clutch disengaged. If I would not step on the the clutch while trying to coast by letting off the gas pedal, it would pull the truck along like the throttle was stuck.

I should point out that the fast idle speed did not climb but it came down way too slow sometimes not coming down until I was almost completely stopped. My truck did not have the check engine light come on but then I only drove it this way for about 120 miles.

When i came close to a complete stop the RPM would drop to normal idle speeds. It would then continue to idle fine for as long as I left it alone. If I would rev the engine to over 3000 RPM, after it was fully warmed up, it would take about 5 to 10 seconds to return to normal Idle speed. When the engine was cold it would idle just about perfect with no problems exhibited until the truck was warmed up completely.

A few days ago I took off the IAC valve and cleaned it with throttle body cleaner and it did seem to help but did not completely fix the problems.

Tonight, after reading this thread, I went and bought a new IAC from auto zone and now it is running like new! Problem solved. I have more power now between 3000 RPM and 5000 RPM. I hope this post will help someone who stumbles upon this thread using Google the same way I did. Thank you ford-forums.com for maintaining this great website!

[racsan]

on my 4.0 i had a similar problem, after replacing everything but the engine control proccessor (computer) i started taking the intake apart to see if i had a failed intake gasket, i did find a failed fuel rail gasket, it had pulled in at the front and rear causing a major vac leak. years back i had a 2.3 that had a vac leak where the pcv valve is.