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Ford Ranger More than two decades ago, the Ford Ranger debuted as an answer to various compact pickup trucks being made available by Japanese automakers. The Ranger was cleanly styled and offered with a choice of a 6-foot or 7-foot bed. Ford boasted that the Ranger had more interior room than the best-selling imports and that 4-by-8-foot construction material could be carried in the bed.

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Old 10-14-2009, 05:33 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 3.0 V6, hard to start when hot.

1998 two wheel drive Ranger 3.0 automatic.
Can anyone help me with a starting problem? It goes something like this.
It starts exceptionally well when cold, never a problem. But if I take it for a drive, then shut it off, it gets harder and harder to start as time goes by.
Example from timed testing I have done.
After 30 minutes it starts with a bit of cranking.
After one hour it requires more cranking, then stumbles a bit before settling down.
After 2 hours I can almost kill the battery cranking, eventually it will catch, then stumble really bad before settling down.
After 4 hours it is all but impossble to get running period.
Next morning fires right up.

Really got me on this one. I have good plugs, wires, one year old coil pack, one year old fuel filter. I bought a fuel pressure gauge, and my readings are 62 psi engine off, 66 psi engine running. I recently put on a new DPFE to replace the metal unit that was giving me a CEL. Have MAC air intake, JET chip and custom exhaust in front of right rear wheel. I have swapped relays to no affect.

The funny thing about this problem is I have had it before. It comes and goes, but I have never been able to nail down what is causing it. I would drive it to work, after 8 hours it would kill the battery getting it started. It would happen for several days to a week, then dissappear for awhile, only to return once again weeks or months later.

Symptoms are like this after sitting 4 hours.
Crank like crazy with very little effort to catch.
When it does catch, it seems like it is running on two cylinders, engine looks like it is going to jump the mounts.
After a few minutes, it seems like another cylinder catches, gets a bit smoother.
A bit longer another cylinder fires up.
After about ten minutes, it is sitting there idling like nothing is wrong.
Runs exceptionally well once going.
Plugs are whitish, as in lean. But they have always looked that way every time I change them. Bought the truck with 20,000, now has 100,000. Plugs have always appeared whitish, thought that was normal on computer controlled fuel-injected vehicles. As I said it runs exceptionally and gets good mileage, around 18 to 21 mpg normal.

There is no fuel smell at all. It seems it is not getting enough fuel when hot, yet a fuel pressure gauge tells me all is fine. What would cause a hot hard-to-start condition, yet allow it to fire right up cold? Any ideas out there? I have been fighting this problem intermittently for two years. It may stick around for another week, then be gone for months. Just cannot figure it out!

Thanks.
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Old 10-15-2009, 03:33 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Does the truck hesitate at all or have a rough idle? Check the Camshaft position sensor. It could be corroded mine was.
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Old 10-15-2009, 09:41 PM   #3 (permalink)
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No hesitation, no rough idle. Pulled the Camshaft Position Sensor off the Synchronizer today and checked it out. Looks perfectly fine, nothing worn, no play. Put some oil down it while the top was off. Has not emitted the well-known squeak yet anyhow.
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Old 10-16-2009, 04:06 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Electrical components build resistance when they heat up.
I don't know which components are close enough to the engine to heat up, yet be far enough away thet they'll get hotter over a four hour period.

Do you get any codes? CEL on?

Maybe check your big and little grounds.


Camshaft Position sensor CMP VS Crankshaft Position sensor
CMP supplies camshaft position information to the PCM. The PCM uses this information during engine startup to begin sequential pulsing of fuel injectors.

Crankshaft Position sensor CKP provides crankshaft position and engine RPM information to Ignition Control Module. (Setting spark timing info)


Maybe one of the above are a little flaky and fail when hot.

Whne it won't start, check for spark, and to see if the injectors are firing.



how to check for power to injectors
A noid light is a small incandescent bulb in a socket with pins that plug directly into the wiring harness leading to your fuel injectors.

Popular Mechanics: Auto Clinic Expert Q & A -- Fuel Injection - Popular Mechanics
A picture and more information is inlcuded in the above link.
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Old 10-16-2009, 06:53 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I'll go pick up a Noid Light today. It is obvious to me it is fuel related, in some way. I tried something yesterday that worked. My air intake has a hole for the crankcase vent that I plugged, as I run the vent external with a filter on the end.

When it was hard to start, I removed the plug on the intake, and misted some gasoline into the intake with a mister bottle. Truck fired right up.

I do not think the crankshaft or camshaft position sensors are the culprit, becaus once it starts it runs fine. Its just hard to get started a few hours after shutdown.

As usual this morning, it fired right up, no hesitation whatsoever.

I did remove the performance chip from the computer yesterday, to be sure that was not the problem. Also let the truck sit with the battery dis-connected for an hour, in case the ECM was getting crazy. Not really sure that does anything, but someone told me to try it. Afterwards it still was a b---h to start.
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Old 10-16-2009, 04:31 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Well, here is the latest. After replacing the DPFE the hard starting still exists when warm. I have narrowed it down to a lack of fuel, although I cannot figure out why. A noid light shows the injectors getting power, the pressure is in the middle of the required 56 to 72 psi, engine off or running.

I have found that if I remove the plug from my air intake for the crankcase vent, and squirt some fuel into the tube, then it will start up everytime, first turn of the key. So as to what is not doing its thing, I have not the faintest idea.

No CEL and no codes showing. Guess I'll be scratching my head on this for awhile.
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Old 10-16-2009, 04:48 PM   #7 (permalink)
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hmmm, how about lack fo air?

Your air cleaner is clean?
Your IAC?

What does the IAC do? How does it work?
Ford Fuel Injection » Idle Air Bypass (IAB)
Check and clean your IAC
Ford Explorer IAC Fix .: Articles
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Old 10-16-2009, 08:31 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Lack of air would make the mixture rich, extra fuel would not solve the problem. Anyhow I have a performance intake, MAC with a brand spanking new Spectre air cone filter on the end. And I cleaned the MAS while I was changing the filter.

IAC functions fine. When you unplug the connector the engine dies, just like it is supposed to. I cleaned it anyhow.
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Old 10-16-2009, 09:28 PM   #9 (permalink)
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There are some good pictures of my truck here, from 2007. Nothing much has changed since then. The addition of a low profile tonneau cover and tri-spoke "knock-off" spinners on the wheels. Oh: a few hail dings I have not bothered to remove. :>)

I take care of it, it is not just some abused junker. I thought cars could tell this and return the favor! LOL

Another Newbie! OH NO! - Ranger Power Sports Forum
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Old 10-17-2009, 04:21 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Does your engine have a IAT ?
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