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Go Back   Ford Forums > Ford Trucks, Ford SUVs & Ford Vans > Ford Ranger

Ford Ranger More than two decades ago, the Ford Ranger debuted as an answer to various compact pickup trucks being made available by Japanese automakers. The Ranger was cleanly styled and offered with a choice of a 6-foot or 7-foot bed. Ford boasted that the Ranger had more interior room than the best-selling imports and that 4-by-8-foot construction material could be carried in the bed.

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Old 05-16-2007, 07:36 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Question 92 Ranger Rotor / Hub / Bearing Replacement

I recently purchased a 2wd Ranger (V6 - 3.0L) which has VERY rust wheel studs. It looks like the previous owner had a lot of fun putting new tires on it (I can see where they torched one of the lugs off) and there are a few lug nuts missing. Obviously I plan on replacing them (and the studs).

I plan on replacing the front rotor/hub assembly with new ones that have the studs already in them. I figure that I might as well just do the whole thing while I am at it - replace the pads (of course), perhaps the calipers if they are bad, and the bearings as well. Any advice?

Here are some specific questions that I have:

1) I 'hear' that there is a special socket required to get the hub nut off - is that true? If so, can I source that from a Pep-boys / Autozone / O'Reilly type parts store or do I have to get it from Ford?
2) Do rotor/hub assemblies usually come with the bearing races pressed in or do they come with the new bearings? If they don't already come pressed in then do I need to have that done at a machine shop or can I press them in myself?
3) Anything else I need to know?

I am not quite so comfortable with servicing drum brake assemblies so I plan to take the truck to a brake repair shop and have them redo the rear shoes and perhaps wheel cylinders and then press out and replace the back wheel studs while they are back there. Any advice?

Thanks in advance folks!
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Old 05-18-2007, 10:11 PM   #2 (permalink)
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There is no special socket that I know of I believe it just has a cotter pin through it to keep it from backing off. question#2 You can purchase what we call "loaded hubs" that have races and bearings pre-greased already pressed in from Timken bearings. #3 If you choose,you can press your own races using a socket and a small sledge just make sure the socket is the same size as the race and also be sure when you hammer it in it goes in evenly, whatever you choose to do remember to "seat" the bearings and hub when you install them on the spindle by tightening to specs then backing off 1/4 of a turn. Make sure the assembly turns freely by hand before you install the tire. Good luck.
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