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Ford RangerMore than two decades ago, the Ford Ranger debuted as an answer to various compact pickup trucks being made available by Japanese automakers. The Ranger was cleanly styled and offered with a choice of a 6-foot or 7-foot bed. Ford boasted that the Ranger had more interior room than the best-selling imports and that 4-by-8-foot construction material could be carried in the bed.
I'm looking at buying a 1990 Regular cab 2wd ranger with the 2.3L engine and a 5-speed trans. From what I've been told the only thing wrong with it is that it needs a timing belt. They said it was running and driving up until the belt broke.
My only concern since i know precious little about ford engines is that the a(the) valve(s) could have collided with a(the) piston(s) when the belt snapped. So is that something I should be worried about or is that impossible with the ranger 2.3L engine?
Also how difficult is it to replace the timing belt in say a back yard with limited hand tool? I'm pretty mechanically inclined and don't really have the money for a shop to do it. I just don't want to get in over my head and have to pay someone else to finish it. So any advice would be great.
Oh small side note, what kind of mileage do these engines usually live up to. This truck has about 350K miles on it, not sure if it's the original engine or not. But by the chance that it is, should I be worried about it dying on me right away?
I believe they are a non interference engine. I used to have a 85 mustang with the 2.3 and i replaced the timing belt. it wasn't hard, just make sure you tighten the idler or else the belt will kick back and slip a tooth when you shut the engine off.
Get ready for the 351 boss build this summer, 4v closed chamber heads, 2.25/1.75 valves, .750 lift, 12.5:1 piistons, wieand tunnel ram, nitrous, I think its gonna roar!
yeah there is supposed to be no way that the valves could hit the pistons.
That is a ton of mileage!
Don't adjust the deflection. Loosen the bolt for the adjuster, use a pry bar to pull it back, slip the old belt off, put the new belt on and time it, let the adjuster run under its own pressure, turn the the motor over by hand at least two revoloutions, tighten the bolt on the adjuster.
Get ready for the 351 boss build this summer, 4v closed chamber heads, 2.25/1.75 valves, .750 lift, 12.5:1 piistons, wieand tunnel ram, nitrous, I think its gonna roar!
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