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Ford Taurus Along the way, Ford has made some 500 changes to the Taurus, changes that were already scheduled for the mid-cycle freshening of the Five Hundred. The general body shape of the new Taurus is the same as that of the previous Five Hundred, a large, front-wheel-drive family sedan, but almost everything else has changed for the better.

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Old 11-13-2008, 08:08 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Tudor.. When you say BOO switch, I suspect you are referring to the brake light switch under the dash on the pedal correct? Its worth a try I guess.
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Old 11-15-2008, 05:01 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Tudor.. When you say BOO switch, I suspect you are referring to the brake light switch under the dash on the pedal correct? Its worth a try I guess.
Yeah, I'm sorry for being obsequious. BOO stands for Brake On Off. BOO is what Ford calls it.
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Old 11-16-2008, 12:19 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Do an amp draw test. Remove the light from the under hood light socket so that is not a source of amp draw. Then use an amp meter (digital multi meter) to determin if amperage is being drawn from the battery (We know that it is, but bear (sic) with me). The alarm system and the computers should be drawing mili-amps, say 5 to 25 mili-amps, where the source of your short is drawing much more than that. OK, we know we have an amp draw so we need to determine which circuit it is coming from. You have done that by removing the fuse of the offending circuit and determined that it is the circuit the lights are on. What else is on that circuit? Glovebox light? Trunk light? BOO switch? Use an electrical circuit diagram of the problem circuit and disconnect the switch or socket or whatever could be drawing current and check for the amp draw. When you disconnect the right item the amp draw will stop. Remember each time you open the door you will turn on the exterior lights, or when you close the door the alarm system has to reset, or something or other has to reset, so that you have to waite a few minutes for the normal systems amp draw to stop before you test for the problem. It would be a good idea to start with a fully charged battery. It might also help to read a service manual on doing the amp draw tests as that might give you a better explanation than I have. The idea is to narrow the search to the specific section of the wire harness and item (switch, cigar lighter, light socket, etc). By any chance does the 93 have a GEM (generic electronic module)? I do not recall the 93 having a GEM, but they are often the source of electrical problems that are difficult to find.
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Old 04-08-2009, 09:05 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Guys Im still fighting this battery drain problem. Up till now I have replaced: Boo switch, turn signal stalk, headlight switch. Any other suggestions would be great. I did find a short at the fog light system and was sure that was the bandit, but corrected that issue and nope , 2 days dead as a door nail.
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Old 04-08-2009, 10:38 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Hook a digital volt meter to the battery and see if you can see the drain of power. Then pull one fuse at a time to see if the power draw stops. You may find the system that is the problem. Also check the starter for a dead short.
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Old 04-10-2009, 06:40 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Hook a digital volt meter to the battery and see if you can see the drain of power. Then pull one fuse at a time to see if the power draw stops. You may find the system that is the problem. Also check the starter for a dead short.
Excellent advice. The comment about the starter is interesting too. I seem to remember someone who found that they had a bad starter solenoid. Apparently it allowed very minimal contact between the battery and starter even when it was supposed to be open. This of course didn't provide enough current to move the starter, but did drain the battery pretty quickly.
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