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Ford Tempo The Ford Tempo is an American-built two-door coupe and four-door sedan produced by the Ford Company from 1984 to 1994. It was the successor to the Ford Fairmont, and was replaced in 1994 by the Ford Contour. The Tempo was part of a rejuvenation by Ford to offer more environmentally friendly, fuel efficient, and more modern styled models to compete with the imports.

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Old 01-14-2008, 02:02 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Bought a '93 Tempo

I picked up a '93 Tempo for $150. Engine seems to run good and the transmission shifts okay. Slow to start some mornings, and idles a little funny when on the brakes. I am starting with changing the fuel filter and looking into a vacuum leak in the brake booster. I drove it for about 3-4 weeks.

It obviously does have a few issues, but no rust, just some dents and faded paint.

When the car is first started, the belt will squeal for about 30 sec. then stop (sometimes like 10 sec.). Once the engine is idled down once warm, it makes a clattering/chattering noise, but it doesn't appear to be directly related to the valve train. 1,800+ (guess) RPMS, and the noise is pretty much gone. Sounds like it coming from the passenger side, near the tire/front of the engine, basically the side of the car. At higher RPMs (2,000+), it just sounds like a normal 4 cyl. engine. Sometimes the steering will freeze for a sec. then suddenly kick in and it may or may not squeal. Also, will everything turned on (heat, brights, stereo, etc), the belt will squeal. It's gotta be smoked by now.

I think it's the power steering pump going bad.

Does this sound consistent with it's location and are these known to be problematic? Will I need a power steering pump pulley puller for this particular job (anything to watch out for)? I am planning on just getting a used one, I don't want to sell out $100 for just a PS pump for a $150 car. I am just using it until I get my student loans paid off, then I am going to get something from the year 2000+. I would also like to make a little money off of it. (even if it's $50).

I just ordered a new gatorback belt for it. The battery also died on me the other day, it looked old and it could have just been from the cold. I mean it was from 12v to not being able to luminate the head lights within seconds. I put battery I had kicking around in it, and it fired up and I got it home. It's been setting until I get the embarrassing squeal resolved. I am guessing they're related, the alternator seemed to test okay, about 14 volts with a load and no load on the electrical system.

I was gutting a F250 to put the 351 into my Ranger, I finally got rid of the F250 and am ready to diagnose the problems as this is going to be my beater car because I finally have the room again in my garage.

Also, after driving the car for a while, it feels like a tire is out of balance in the front. Rolls pretty smooth when it's cold. I was making an guess that a rotor could be severly warping under heat from friction of the brakes. I torqued the front tires with a torque wrench when I reinstalled. Has anyone ever heard of a rotor doing this, or should I look more closely to the CV joints?

I appreciate any insight on these issues before I start digging in. The first thing I am going to do is listen at the pulley tensioner, A/C, P/S, and alternator with a stethoscope, and hopefully this will point me in the right direction.

One more thing, where is the best place to jack up these cars with just a regular old jack? I guess I can use the scissors... I just don't want to break anything and make more of a mess than I am are into.

Has anyone actually done a 2.3L -> 3.0L swap on one of these, and if so, do the transmissions hold up like those found in the Taurus?

Thanks,
Pete
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Old 01-16-2008, 03:45 PM   #2 (permalink)
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So how is the motor swap coming along? Is the Tempo still runing?
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Old 01-16-2008, 10:13 PM   #3 (permalink)
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So how is the motor swap coming along? Is the Tempo still runing?
LOL, I have a long way to go. I have an engine that needs gone through (it ran okay though), a transmission that needs taken to a shop to have some upgrading, wiring, and other various pieces. I rebuilt the V6 (2.9L) in it 4 years ago with a high performance cam, MAF conversion, bigger injectors, headers, etc. I am ready for a new engine though.

Haven't started it in a few days, I bought it mainly to drive in the snow. Hasn't snowed, so I guess I haven't had much push to work on it. Definitely taking a look this weekend with a stethoscope and getting it done.

Pete
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Old 01-16-2008, 10:53 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Yeah I just got me a 1992 GL. My e-Brake just went out, and I need to fix that. also, I found some clear Headlights Im going to get too. Do you know if I can get a Cold Air Intake for my 2.3L?
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Old 01-18-2008, 07:53 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Yeah I just got me a 1992 GL. My e-Brake just went out, and I need to fix that. also, I found some clear Headlights Im going to get too. Do you know if I can get a Cold Air Intake for my 2.3L?
First thing I would probably is see if the cable is pulling the rear shoes. If not, diagnose why the cable isn't getting pulled from the foot lever in the car. You might go through and grease up the e-brake cables.

Most Fords are already built with a fresh air intake, but I still haven't fimilarized myself with this vehicle. I've had the hood open once to check if it had coolant and oil.

I know my friend's '96 2.3L had a baffle in the intake in a Ranger, and apparently that's kind of restrictive. I do know that a CAI will make it sound more ricey. Not sure if that's the case here, but on some, a CAI is just a waste of money (like my V6). Sometimes they make things worse by pulling in hot air from under the hood. Also, putting a bigger diameter intake tube on it won't do much if the engine isn't demanding anything more than stock.

If you could make a ram air setup, that would be the way to go.

Pete
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Old 01-18-2008, 03:39 PM   #6 (permalink)
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First thing I would probably is see if the cable is pulling the rear shoes. If not, diagnose why the cable isn't getting pulled from the foot lever in the car. You might go through and grease up the e-brake cables.

Alright. Let me explain what's goin on then. When I pull the e-Brake, it feels really loose, like there is no tensin on it at all. So I have to leave my car on first gear everytime I park it. So you think it might be my cable running to the rear Drums?
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Old 01-19-2008, 09:23 AM   #7 (permalink)
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the rear brakes are gona man as they wear more and more slack becomes availbe on the ebrake system, the linkages usslay becoem unconected where the e-brake cable spits into 2 other cables to tthe rears.

about your 2.3 -v6 swap

it is 100% plug and play.
as long as you ahve the motor/transit wil fall right in there with v6 motor mounts.
if your going from auto-stick or back make shure youve got the right pedals.
but you can also swap in a 1.9l escort motor.
which means a cosworth performance motor can also fall into place.
just food for thought
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Old 01-19-2008, 05:46 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Oh shit, that Cosworth is the shit.
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Old 01-20-2008, 10:50 PM   #9 (permalink)
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you will need escort spindles/hubs and a slight modification to the shocks/struts nothign hard though, and you will ned to mixmatch parts between the car's cv axles.......if your interested leme know.
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