1995 T-Bird weird transmission issue

[Cyclone]

Hey guys, I have a 1995 Thunderbird that has the automatic electric shift tranmission. The problem is extremely weird and I know others have had the same problem with this type of transmission, and would like to know ideas or maybe the issue.

* The problem is I can be driving at highway speeds (55-75mph) at somewhere around (1800rpm), the car seems to shift out of overdrive. The car then throttles up to around (3500rpm) for about 5-7 seconds and then jerks and lunges back to overdrive. This can happen 3 or 4 time in a row, or won't happen at all for 300-400 miles, it's very sporatic. The car does lose some ground speed by the time the car get back to overdrive. I've had a tranmission shop put a codereader on the car an came back with no codes, but I'm pretty sure it's some sort or sensor and not a internal transmission failure.

The funny thing is I can override the overdrive with the lock on the console and the problem still happens. The car seems to shift at proper speed's and rpm's, and will drive great at city speeds, and the fuild seems to be in good shape and not have any BBQ smell.

Just thought that someone with a mid 90's T-bird probably has had this same issue at sometime, thanks.

[isagachu]

I Too, Have A 1995 T-Bird, And I Have Read In Many Places That The Transmissions Were Never Outstandingly Reliable... Mine Doesn't Have That Problem... But The Transmission Is Not In Perfect Working Order... Alot Of Leaks In The Seal...

[strens]

Those trans had some problems with the PRNDL switch. It is on the side of the trans and tells the computer which gear you have selected. Easy to replace. They also had problems with the valve body loosing the correct torque on the bolts. That requires you to drop the pan, remove the filter and retorque the valve body. Any competent garage should be able to peform both fixes. Ford trans will not set codes many times if the problem is intermittent. To test if this was true or not, I disconnected the speed sensor on a Ford and had to drive it for over a mile before a code was set, the trans (computer) was in the failsafe mode the whole time. Both of the items mentioned above will give you the symptons you are describing, usually more so when hot.

Originally Posted by Cyclone

Hey guys, I have a 1995 Thunderbird that has the automatic electric shift tranmission. The problem is extremely weird and I know others have had the same problem with this type of transmission, and would like to know ideas or maybe the issue.

* The problem is I can be driving at highway speeds (55-75mph) at somewhere around (1800rpm), the car seems to shift out of overdrive. The car then throttles up to around (3500rpm) for about 5-7 seconds and then jerks and lunges back to overdrive. This can happen 3 or 4 time in a row, or won't happen at all for 300-400 miles, it's very sporatic. The car does lose some ground speed by the time the car get back to overdrive. I've had a tranmission shop put a codereader on the car an came back with no codes, but I'm pretty sure it's some sort or sensor and not a internal transmission failure.

The funny thing is I can override the overdrive with the lock on the console and the problem still happens. The car seems to shift at proper speed's and rpm's, and will drive great at city speeds, and the fuild seems to be in good shape and not have any BBQ smell.

Just thought that someone with a mid 90's T-bird probably has had this same issue at sometime, thanks.

[byrd_of_thunder]

hey there guys. i have a 97 bird. i dunno if the transmissions between our years r different or not. somehow i think they're probably the same but anyways, i have some similar problems. i've drained the pan n replaced the filter 2wice. replaced the electronic shift control solenoid. that helped a little. but like everyone else i have leaks so that obviously doesn't help anything. one thing i've bin told my many tbird owners is that the torque converters r notorious 4 slipping 2 much when they're supposed 2 b more or less "locked". i know mine will slip if i'm coming up 2 a red light, n then it turns green. as soon as i step on the gas the engine will rev slowly without gaining speed, then all of a sudded slam into gear like a slipping clutch. i'm switching mine out 4 a t-56 soon, i suggest u do the same. much better trans. good luck

Nick

[chilly598]

I spent hours researching this problem on the internet. Found many, many ideas, but not one that worked till now. My problem was the same that started this thread, that of my 95 Tbird 4r70W tranny slipping out of 4th or OD and into 3rd, often so much that it was annoying, and occasionally not for 50 miles or more. But, it only did it after the tranny was hot from driving at least 5 miles. Strens had the answer for me, at least almost. I torqued the valve body bolts to specs and the problem went away totally for almost 700 miles. Now its acting up again just a little, but not very much. My tranny has no leaks or other apparent problems. I'll be crawling under there again to retorque those bolts once more, but only a little tighter and see what happens.

[dqassassin]

As posted above, you have might to check the torque on the valve body bolts. Also, make sure your motor is in good running condition. To many times i have seen people misdiagnose tranny problems, with motor ones.

[jimharvey1]

I have a similar problem with my 1996 3.8L. It shifts up through the gears fine until it gets to about 45 mph then it "shudders" as it goes into overdrive/lockup and occasionally after that like it's trying to come in and out of lockup or overdrive. I bought the car new in 96 and it currently has only 32,000 miles on it (wife's car - she doesn't drive much). Tranny fluid looks and smells good. I have the typical problem with the odometer gears which just now quit working. The drivers side window gear is gone too. So are the rear sway arm bushing links. And I have a check engine light which Autozone said it was throwing a code for the EGR solenoid/valve. Grrr.... otherwise the car is a dream to drive. Great fuel economy and a phenomenal ride.

[kubbie]

Jimharvey1 you'll be throwing a lot of money at the car if you go w/ that code. After changing the EGR, you'll get a code for the O2 sensors and a few other things but never fix the problem.

I gave up and took my bird to Ford and their reader said it was the MAF sensor. Its located on top of the air filter lid held on w/ 2 screws. Changed it and the car ran great. Moms bird was acting same way put my sensor on her car and fixed her problem.

Now the deal w/ the shifting in and out of O/D I'm gonna be crawling under my car to check the valve body bolts.

[Birdofprey97]

The MAFs need to be cleaned every so often guys. It's not hard to do at all. Just unbolt it and use electrical connection cleaner(radioshack) do NOT use CARB or BRAKE cleaner it will leave a film on the sensors and not allow it to read correctly. Now, before attempting to clean the MAF make sure the key has not been put in the "ON" position for at least 12 hours. If you put the key in the ignition and turn it on it sends electricity to the MAF and that heats it up and the cold cleaner will cause that little wire to snap. Just make sure the car has been sitting for at least 12 hours and you will be fine.

I own 89 and 97 Birds. Have owned several more along the way. 97 has been upgraded to a 99 GT valve body and a Marauder Torque Converter. The stumbling issue is usually caused around 40-60k miles and occurs again around 100k. Proper fluid changes are needed and they are usually required more frequently then in the owners manual. I have done the J-mod to mine as well to improve shift points. That shudder is the TC not being able to stay engaged from lack of fluid pressure. ATF fluid is the best I have found.

96 and newer with the stumbling on the start I would clean the MAF and pull the IAC and clean that as well. The EGR is just two bolts and that can be checked. It's pretty easy to knock the vac line off of the EGR when you are up under the hood, so check that and make sure the line can hold pressure.

[BroncoJoe19]

The main thing with these transmissions is the need to change the fluid every 30,000 miles or so.

To the gent above with the faulty odometer, scan for trouble codes. The electronic controlled transmissions are controlled by the PCM, and it gets some info from the VSS vehicle speed sensor, which also sends info to the PSOM programmable speedometer odometer. The PCM uses the VSS and other sensors to set shift points.