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Ford WindstarIntroduced in the mid-1990s, the front-wheel-drive Ford Windstar minivan campaigned with an emphasis on, and reputation for, safety. And in the hotly contested family minivan market of the time, that was an especially solid piece of ground to be on. As long as buyers didn't need to haul adults in back on a regular basis, the Windstar served a family's needs just fine.
I had this problem with my 98 Windstar and all I had to do was replace the switch that is attached to the rightmost control knob (shown by picture from Wild Starchild). Basically what happens is that the switch no longer holds a vacuum and needs to be replaced. Just install a new switch and reconnect the vacuum lines and you will have cold air again. The switch is what opens up the lever to shut off the hot air and redirect cold air to the back.
I seem to be one of many with this problem. Thankyou Ford. Anyway, working on my fron t controls, I have vacuum through the switch, but apparently one or both of the two vacuum control motors is not reacting when vacuum is applied. These are the ones with two vacuum pulls each. How do I trouble shoot them. And, how do I get those darn things out? I have spent alot of time under the dash - how do unclip them at the doors?
Does anyone have an answer to my question? That control switch on the dash to the far right has TWO vac lines going to it. (SEE PIC) One is white, and the other black. The black line is cut, and it looks as if someone has removed the line it was cut from. Does anyone have a clue as to where that black line goes? I think if I knew where that one is supposed to connect I can fix my problem.
the black line should go into the black line T from the next switch over.
the 5 line vacuum has a black line and there is a T connector on it, hook it there.
I stumbled upon this site today when finally decided to troubleshoot rear ac blowing hot air problem - had it for 4-5 years now. That's after front HVAC decided to work through the defrost mode only last week. So I went out and bought the rear AC switch, as recommended, but it did not fix the problem. So I looked and played with the blue lever trying to move it up and down (lower vs. upper vents). Suddenly, the cold air started coming through the upper vents! It appeared at first the problem was fixed, but it wasn't - as soon as I switched the knob up front to heat, the valve came up - as it should - and warm air was flowing through bottom vents. When I switched the knob back to AC, the valve did not move down. So I turned rear AC off, and gently pushed on the blue lever in the back (so it was closed maybe 90%, not 100%), turned rear AC on again, and within seconds, the valve moved down (opened) and cold air was flowing through the upper vents again! I repeated the procedure 3 times, same result. So my question is: what is wrong with this thing? I really appreciate any advise, and will post any solution I find. After fixing this problem, on to front vents, and passenger door lock. Thank you. Ed.
The blue lever is vacuum actuated. Either you have a vacuum leak, or a break in the diaphragm of the actuator. I would suck on a vacuum line to the actuator to test it, because I don't have a vacuum pump.
Ed, one makeshift solution to your situation is to detach the vacuum control motor (VCM) arm from the blue lever to get A/C during summer; and then reattach it during winter for heat. For a permanent fix, I would try changing the VCM and if that doesn't help, hunt for a vac leak, as suggested bu broncojoe.
Thank you guys for advise, I am very frustrated at this point. I was hoping replacing the rear switch would fix the problem. I can do stuff around the house, but I am no mechanic - i.e. I have no testing equipment or specialized tools. I was considering detaching the arm once I saw how the mechanics work, however, I did not see an easy way to do it without potentially breaking the blue lever. I was also thinking about replacing the VCM, but there are 2 issues: 1. not easy access to it, I think I would have to remove more than the plastic cover I already removed (unless you suggest otherwise); 2. dealer will not take the part back once it's sold (at least that's what they told me about the switch). I am reluctant to keep buying parts without having a good chance to fix the problem. Lastly, I was also thinking about the vac leak, especially since the front air now only comes through the defrost mode, as suggested by other members. Again, not being a mechanic, I do not know where to begin to test for a leak without some sort of tester/meter I don't have and proper instructions. If you guys believe the front and rear HVAC problems are related and there is a common fix, please let me know. I took it to the dealer for estimate, they quoted me $900 to fix rear AC issue; I took it than to independent mechanic who told me he will fix it for $400. I did not think it should be that expensive. Any help is truly appreciated.
I forgot to add one more thought - since the VCM stayed in place once the AC was running through the top vents, and only went into heat mode (up) when I turned the switch knob, it tells me that the VCM is not broken, i.e. it is not leaking air, and therefore should not need to be replaced. The only problem is that when you switch the knob back to AC, it does not move down, which is more than likely either the vacuum leak, or a faulty switch. Since I replaced the switch already, I am thinking vacuum leak. And if my thought is correct, than is it a leak on that white line only going from the switch to the VCM, or could it be that there is a leak elsewhere in the system, and it is affecting both the rear and front HVAC performance? I don't know the answer to that, and have no idea how to check for that.
the VCM will always go up, as there is a spring inside that expands the diaphragm. Spend the $12 at rockauto.com install it and live happy.
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1998 Ford Windstar GL 3.8L 253,100 miles
2005 Toyota Prius Package 6 1.5L 135,000 miles
2006 Toyota Sienna LE 3.3L 36,000 miles
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Thank you all. Quick question before I buy new VCM. I was able to take it out (so now I know how to detach the lever for the summer in case it is not fixed completely). When I press the lever all the way down, and put my finger where the hose connects, the VCM is not losing any air, and the valve is staying in place (down). Does that mean that VCM is good, and the problem is the leak somewhere along that white line? Or not necessarily? Thank you.
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