2000 WS SEL 3.8L Drive axle replacement

wmmcd · 08-05-2008, 12:07 AM

Planning on replacing drive axles on my 2000 WS. Are there any pitfalls that I should be aware of? Have thoroughly studied the Haynes manual and seems fairly straight forward. I have ordered the drive axles from rockauto (p/n 662091 & 662005), apparently they are complete (old out, new in). Not sure of new circlips...do they usually come with a new/rebuild unit? Have also ordered new axle nuts and pinch bolts for each side.
Am I missing anything? As always sounds entirely too easy from reading manual, surely there is something that's going to be a PITA.
If you've seen any of my previous requests for help, you'lll recognize that I'm posted over in merry 'ol England....and they don't exactly have a pep boys or autozone on every corner.... so I have to mail order EVERYTHING and need to make sure that I have everything before I start ripping the front end apart and realize that I'm missing a lil bolt or nut that I'd normally be able to pop around the corner and buy.
"Cheers" in advance for your assistance

mark v · 08-05-2008, 07:46 AM

It does look like an easy job from what I have read. I dont think you are missing anything.

wmmcd · 08-19-2008, 11:44 PM

Okay, looks like I've finally received everything I need in the mail.
Two quick questions before I tackle the job this weekend:
1: New driveaxle has a split ring fit; however, does not look like what I picture as a normal split ring/circlip. It's nothing more than a loose fitting strip of metal. Does anyone recall what it should look like?
2: When removing the driveaxles (completing 1 side at a time), will tranny fluid leak? Should I have a catch pan and fluid on standby?

Thanks again for assistance in advance

mark v · 08-20-2008, 12:02 AM

#1. I have no idea.

#2. I doubt it but it cant hurt to have one available.

Did you get new axle seals where the shafts slide into the transmission or do the shafts bolt on?

wmmcd · 08-20-2008, 06:07 AM

no new axle seals...and they do not bolt on.
Might I should have ordered seals as well?
uh oh lol
thanks again

mark v · 08-20-2008, 08:46 AM

Yes you will need new seals, old ones may leak when you remove and install the new shafts.

wmmcd · 08-31-2008, 04:32 AM

Dove in and replaced axle(s) last weekend. Not an overly difficult job. Hardest part was disengaging joint at lower ball joint-knuckle. Left side went very smooth. Right side, however, different story. Got apart, reassembled with new axle easy enough. Only to find out on putting in gear that axle sent by rock was wrong length. Too short, so it disengaged at inner CV joint. Put back in air, took it all apart, replaced original axle. Luckily it was the left side that really needed replacing, was only replacing r/s as a preventative measure. Anyone need a 20 pound paperweight? lol Lesson learned, don't assume that you're given correct part; should have compared axles side by side before putting in new one. Had I done that first time would have noticed it being a full 3-4 inches too short.
Had alignment done, drives like a champ again. No more clunk when going Rev-D. Thanks for help

Flyingjackal456 · 08-31-2008, 09:45 PM

I would clean up the axle, and send it back... even if they want a restocking fee, at least collect something.

I sadly ordered the wrong bug shield from another online store (it's for 1999-2003 Windstars) and now have to pay a restocking fee of 20%. Hopefully they won't charge me the return shipping, or I might as well just keep the part.