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Ford Windstar Introduced in the mid-1990s, the front-wheel-drive Ford Windstar minivan campaigned with an emphasis on, and reputation for, safety. And in the hotly contested family minivan market of the time, that was an especially solid piece of ground to be on. As long as buyers didn't need to haul adults in back on a regular basis, the Windstar served a family's needs just fine.

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Old 09-01-2008, 12:50 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default front end problems

took the tires off my 2000 sel to check for nails in tires, tire ok. i then looked at the front end and found this:

1) passenger side tie rod can be rocked by hand side to side,driver side good.

2)stabilizer bar bushings good solid, but bar can be pushed left to right with ease.

3)stabilizer links can be turned left to right with hand, both sides.

4) Rack has a slight leak, will repair soon.

5)so fare so good with everything else.

this is my first ford van, are any of these problems hard to repair myself? i had all GM till i got the van. thanks all
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Old 09-01-2008, 03:17 PM   #2 (permalink)
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If you are good with cars they are easy repairs. The Tie-rod ends will require an alignment afterwards.

The Rack will be more difficult to do, another person here just did one on his Windstar.
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Old 09-03-2008, 05:48 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Many alignment and/or repair shops (but not many dealers) will inspect your front end (and tell you what need to be replaced) for free or for a nominal charge that they will refund when you get your alignment done.
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Old 09-12-2008, 12:53 PM   #4 (permalink)
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just check my front end again, should i change both tie rods at the same time? do i need a special tool to remove the tie rod? the stabilizer bar bushings look good but if i grab the bar i can push and pull it left to right, is that good or does it not supposed to move. the stabilizer links are shot to, they twist and turn with my hand. and whats the best place to buy replacement parts for the windstars, thanks all.
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Old 09-12-2008, 02:52 PM   #5 (permalink)
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No "special tools" should be required to replace a tie rod end. If you feel that the one end is good, don't replace it. If you can move the stabilizer bar back and forth, I would replace the bushings. Silicon spray will help you get the new ones on (better than oil).

There are a couple of tricks to removing a tie rod.

First, remove the cotter pin and castle nut from the tie rod end at the spindle. Reinstall the castle nut upside down but only thread it on far enough that the bottom of the nut (which is now on top) is flush with the top of the threads. A coupe of whacks with a hammer and the tie rod end should pop right out from the spindle.

Second, after you loosen the lock nut on the other end of the tie rod, you can unscrew it. Count the number of turns it takes to completely unscrew it. Now count the number of turns when as you reinstall the new one and then snug up the lock nut.

I'm a snob, and will only buy Moog brand suspension parts. They are more expensive, but I believe they are the best (especially ball joints). I'm not saying other brands are bad, just my personal choice.

Any big auto parts store (AutoZone, NAPA, etc) will have these parts or can get them in a few days. Prices and on hand stock does vary, so call around.
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Old 09-12-2008, 04:52 PM   #6 (permalink)
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You will need a special tool for an inner tie rod end though.
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Old 09-12-2008, 07:52 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theoldwizard View Post
No "special tools" should be required to replace a tie rod end. If you feel that the one end is good, don't replace it. If you can move the stabilizer bar back and forth, I would replace the bushings. Silicon spray will help you get the new ones on (better than oil).

There are a couple of tricks to removing a tie rod.

First, remove the cotter pin and castle nut from the tie rod end at the spindle. Reinstall the castle nut upside down but only thread it on far enough that the bottom of the nut (which is now on top) is flush with the top of the threads. A coupe of whacks with a hammer and the tie rod end should pop right out from the spindle.

Second, after you loosen the lock nut on the other end of the tie rod, you can unscrew it. Count the number of turns it takes to completely unscrew it. Now count the number of turns when as you reinstall the new one and then snug up the lock nut.

I'm a snob, and will only buy Moog brand suspension parts. They are more expensive, but I believe they are the best (especially ball joints). I'm not saying other brands are bad, just my personal choice.

Any big auto parts store (AutoZone, NAPA, etc) will have these parts or can get them in a few days. Prices and on hand stock does vary, so call around.
THANK YOU theoldwizard, you have helped me out alot, just ordered the parts from rock auto, yes there were moog!!! thank you again. one more question is the size of the stabilizer bar on the 2000 windstar 20.5m or 22m for the bushings.

Last edited by toughguy5; 09-12-2008 at 08:01 PM.
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Old 09-13-2008, 04:03 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toughguy5 View Post
one more question is the size of the stabilizer bar on the 2000 windstar 20.5m or 22m for the bushings.
The wizards crystal ball is completely black on that one !

Borrow your wife sewing tape measure and measure the circumference (distance around the outside) of the sway bar. Of course make certain that it a metric scale on it !

Diameter = Circumference / 3.14159


P.S. Just Guessing. The smaller sway bar is for the 3.0L engine and the larger for the 3.8L engine, but that is just a guess !

Last edited by theoldwizard; 09-13-2008 at 04:29 AM.
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Old 09-13-2008, 04:07 AM   #9 (permalink)
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You still should take it to an alignment shop. They may recommend more work. When were the shocks replaced ? For a vehicle of that age you are probably overdue. New shocks will help some tire wear issues and will make the vehicle ride better.
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