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Ford Windstar Introduced in the mid-1990s, the front-wheel-drive Ford Windstar minivan campaigned with an emphasis on, and reputation for, safety. And in the hotly contested family minivan market of the time, that was an especially solid piece of ground to be on. As long as buyers didn't need to haul adults in back on a regular basis, the Windstar served a family's needs just fine.

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Old 02-14-2009, 07:04 PM   #11 (permalink)
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At idle spraying the starting fluid will make the engine rev up once it gets sucked into the leak.

Yeah you can just remove the cowl and leave the hood attached to access the plugs, most people do it this way. I hope you marked the hood or it is going to be a SOB to realign it.

Huge van?
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Old 02-14-2009, 09:29 PM   #12 (permalink)
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LOL...I never would have thought of that about the engine rev up with the starter fluid. Yeah...at first I just had the cowl off...but the hood was in the way when I wanted to lean this way and that or just crawl up and look down (after I used a mirror to see where stuff was at first). The hood was held on by two screws on each side through the hinge and into the hood. Should be pretty easy to get back together, at least it would seem so right now. That might change when I try to put it back on. Well...huge van might be stretching it...but compared to other vehicles I have owned it is pretty big and heavy. I have 2.5 ton jack and heavy duty jack stands...but I still don't want to be under long enough to cuss plugs out from underneath, between the firewall and motor, and using an unknown amount of bendy type tools. I just got back about 30 minutes ago with plugs and wires. I'm gonna try them out tomorrow and respond back with results. EGR valve was too expensive to get at this time. I'll take the current one off and check for carbon build up. Thanks for the help...this forum is great!
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Old 02-14-2009, 09:51 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Cool, I hope this fixes your issues.

Put dielectric grease on both sides the plug wires to help keep water out and improve the electrical connection. I also always throw a dab of Antiseize on the spark plug threads too.
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Old 02-14-2009, 10:32 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Default Please be careful!

I wouldn't try starting fluid until you try a WD-40 first.

If you have an arcing plug wire and are using starting fluid............

You may no longer have a lean condition!

Last edited by ElectrolysisDoc; 02-14-2009 at 10:48 PM.. Reason: Saftey
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Old 02-15-2009, 12:09 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I tried quick reply earlier and it did not work.so ill try once more.the two misfire codes are probably contributed by the none restricted EGR ports,hence the other four ports being restricted causing a lean misfire.Usually when the DPFE sensor fails,Falls below or above 1.0v @idle,that will set a p0401.I have seen quit a few lower intake manifold runner bushings cause lean bank 1 and 2 codes.There is no fix that I know of other than replacing the manifold.You can use crc carb cleaner and spray the runner bushings at idle and if the rpms drop,thats a sure sign of unmetered air at that source.Thanks for your time.
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Old 02-15-2009, 06:59 AM   #16 (permalink)
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WD-40 or starting fluid will cause the engine to run differently if sucked into an intake leak. So will water, and it's much safer. I use an old spray bottle from the trash.

If 171 and 174 come on at the same time, it can be a leak between the MAF and the engine, or a dirty MAF. I wouldn't expect a problem at the head if both banks trip at the same time.

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Old 02-15-2009, 07:30 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Update: It's the next morning and I'm about to (happy happy joy joy) replace the plugs and wires and see if that helps. It can't hurt and will prevent any arcing that might have been occurring, allowing me to maybe use starting fluid without confirming explosion. Yeah...the auto parts guys also told me that spark problems could cause a run lean condition. He, too, also reminded me about the dielectric grease, but I will need to get some antiseize if I don't have some already. Once I replace the plugs and wires, if the problem persists I will check the DPFE sensor and MAF filter and sensor. Thanks mark and everyone for your help so far! My wife will be so happy when she can drive her van again!
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Old 02-15-2009, 10:27 AM   #18 (permalink)
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They both are flammable, Starting fluid is safer cause it doesnt stick to your engine like WD-40. After spraying WD-40 all over your engine it leaves that grease film everywhere and if it did catch fire all of the WD-40 would go up in flames, Starting fluid evaporates on contact so if there was a fire it would only be in one place. This is why I say no to WD-40 and yes to Starting Fluid!


Quote:
Originally Posted by ElectrolysisDoc View Post
I wouldn't try starting fluid until you try a WD-40 first.

If you have an arcing plug wire and are using starting fluid............

You may no longer have a lean condition!
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Old 02-15-2009, 11:00 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Only reason I like WD40 is it has a lower flash point thats all. But starting fluid does evap fast ans can make things exciting. The auto part store guy is wrong about the plugs not firing causing a lean condition. A lean condition occurs when when you have too much air in the cylinders. The mass air meter measures incoming air and the computer applies the appropiate fuel to air ratio. When you are checking for the leak check where the intake tube connects to the mass air meter, the throttle body, ect., but I hate to say I think it is going to be the 6 oring gaskets for the intake. I see it allot at work, but I hope its a loose instead.

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Old 02-15-2009, 04:31 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark v View Post
They both are flammable, ..... This is why I say no to WD-40 and yes to Starting Fluid!
mark v; YOU ARE THE MAN!


(I'm still stickin' wit my WD-40)
Did you know it's made from fish oil?
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