Ford WindstarIntroduced in the mid-1990s, the front-wheel-drive Ford Windstar minivan campaigned with an emphasis on, and reputation for, safety. And in the hotly contested family minivan market of the time, that was an especially solid piece of ground to be on. As long as buyers didn't need to haul adults in back on a regular basis, the Windstar served a family's needs just fine.
Actually the two sibling plugs fire at the same time, each revolution ... one plug being on "compression stroke", and one plug being on "exhaust stroke" (some say a "wasted" firing). All this is for saving money ... one ignition coil (the Winny has 3 coils in the "pack") for two cylinders.
{This is done on all modern gaso engines with an even number of cylinders (I think). An engine of 5 cylinders, such as Volvo's ... I would think would have a coil for each cylinder. Some Volvo expert can verify perhaps.}
So if you swap cables, at the pack, for cyls #3 and #4 ... there should normally be no difference. But, in your case, perhaps the misfire would relocate to the other cylinder ... that would be beneficial knowledge!
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BroncoJoe19
2006 Alt Fuel Jeep (electric)
'98 windstar 3.8L
'99 Crown Vic 4.6L
'90 Full Size Bronco 5.0L
I'm not a professional mechanic, take my suggestions with a grain of salt, or a cup of coffee
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I am interested in what you find that fixes your problem as my 2000 Windstar just started the exact same problem you described. But I wont hijack your thread. I'll start a new one.
what have you found?
I'm having the same issue as well, but with the 2000 3.8.
just seems to miss every once in a while, sometime predictable sometimes not.
have replaced the coil pack , wires , and plugs as well as the fuel filter.
still having the problem.
not to the extent as the initial poster of this thread, but I think you understand what I mean.
You're on the right track, but I wish you had ONLY switched the #3 and #4 wires at the coil ... and reread the codes as a "first step". Sometimes "too much change" is "too much change" ... to keep account of.
A compression test reveals a lot of info. Its just a lot of work.
It would be very smart if we all made compression tests on our engines ... while running good, or even when brand new ... and keep this as part of our maintenance records. I bought a new German Ford (Taunus) many years ago. A factory recorded engine compression test was included in the documents.
what have you found?
I'm having the same issue as well, but with the 2000 3.8.
just seems to miss every once in a while, sometime predictable sometimes not.
have replaced the coil pack , wires , and plugs as well as the fuel filter.
still having the problem.
not to the extent as the initial poster of this thread, but I think you understand what I mean.
now I have done the tsb fix of the isolator bolts and cleaned the egr ports and replaced gaskets, still having the same issue, and like the initial poster have run the vehicle with no new codes yet,
I just got a new egr valve , but am waiting on putting it in, to see what transpires here
now I have done the tsb fix of the isolator bolts and cleaned the egr ports and replaced gaskets, still having the same issue, and like the initial poster have run the vehicle with no new codes yet,
I just got a new egr valve , but am waiting on putting it in, to see what transpires here, brought that back to the store, didn't need it
ok after doing all this stuff.
fuel filter, TSB for isolator bolts, plugs , wires, DPFE .
I found the IMRC actuator rods were off because of the $7.00 ea. gromets, one was missing, got it at the junk yard for free.
fixed that,still ran crappy,
and I got a P1121
so I cleaned the MAF, to no avail,
went back to the junk yard, got a MAF there for $22.00, put it in after cleaning it and the vehicle runs great.
Moral: I think I would check the MAF first, clean it with non residue electric cleaner ( radio shack 8 oz can $10.00 )
if that don't fix it, try the junk yard for the MAF FIRST !
they want $135.00 plus a core charge of $70.00 at the parts stores.
Buster
Last edited by buster_fatboy; 06-12-2009 at 12:54 PM..
While compression test is something that I might do, It would be much easier to simply hook up a vacuum guage. I usually go for the easier things first.
see... How to Use and Interpret a Vacuum Gauge
and look at scenarios 5 and 8.
I'm thinking that if you have a bad valve you may have a miss, and maybe some blowback to fowl that one plug.
__________________
BroncoJoe19
2006 Alt Fuel Jeep (electric)
'98 windstar 3.8L
'99 Crown Vic 4.6L
'90 Full Size Bronco 5.0L
I'm not a professional mechanic, take my suggestions with a grain of salt, or a cup of coffee
At the bottom of each post there is a little icon
Clicking it gives feedback to the moderators, and poster regarding which posts are most helpful.
I just wanted to post and say thanks for all the great info here. I have a '98 Winstar with about 220 KMs on it and it was chugging and missing. I checked the forum and read through a few threads unitl I hit this one when it was a page or two. The CPS sounded like a good way to go for me. I had already changed the plugs and wires and then the coil pack.
I ordered the CPS and it came in and I went to change it this past weekend. I took the old one off and realized then they had sent the wrong one out to me - 2 pin connector instead of the 3 pin I needed. Well, I had the CPS off and took a closer look at it, it looked to me like it had some where and tear in it and some fouling up on the metal plate on the inside. I took a flathead and scraped off a little of the gunk on it and put it back in - like I had a choice!
It ran better with the adjustment - not perfect but better. I got the 3 pin connector CPS on Tuesday night and changed it out tonight and it is running much, much better so far. No chugging at all - 99% better, it only misses one or two times when going into 3rd at low RPMs. So far, so good. I guess I'll see what the next few days bring. I reset the codes and we'll see. Anyway, thanks for all the great advice and information, it really helped me out.
Good luck CraigRK and one piece of advice I might be able to help you out with is when you try to loosen those rusted nuts and bolts, try tapping them with a hammer and a punch if necessary. Sometimes it helps and breaks the corrosion seal on the top threads - a few heavy taps and it usually helps. Of course I agree those bolt heads are ridiculous and easy to strip and/or break and hard to get at with all the tubes and lines in the way. Anyway, sometimes the heavy taps work well.
Thanks and again, good luck with getting it fixed.
well, i am not the best mech, but i know a lot about the locking converters that ford seems to love to put into their vehicles, as their overdrive, and when they are worn they lug into locked, and cause some vehicles to lug in low rpm like a truck in 5th and going too slow. Especialy my t-bird.
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