03 Windstar A/C air moves from dash to floor

TimStout · 06-29-2009, 08:56 AM

Hi,
Just found the forum and have read a bunch of A/C issues (with great help) but have not found anything about the problem I'm seeing. Hope someone can help!
Just the other day the wife was driving down the road and the A/C stopped blowing cold air and the vehicle smelled funny. I checked things out right away as the temps here were above 95 degrees. I found a few problems:
1. Oil fill cap was not screwed on right...no oil leak but I suspect the engine was seeing a lean or rich situation and was running hot. The smell was anti-freeze. Wife thinks the temp gauge was normal but doesn't knowfor sure.
2. The A/C was a little low on R-134 so I added a little.
3. The A/C starts out running cool but while driving down the road the cool air switches from the dash vents to the floor vents and gets warm to hot and then switches back again.

I wondering if the vacuum supply line from the engine to the A/C controls could have melted?
Can anyone tell me where the line starts from and goes through the fire wall at?
Thanks much for the help!

TimStout · 06-30-2009, 10:28 AM

So I did some more checking yesterday and found four things.

1. An orange vacuum line was pinched between the temp blent actuator and it's mount completely cutting off vacuum flow. Done at the factory since no one has done A/C work until now.
2. I found a vacuum connection under the driver side dash that was hissing slightly
(6 lines in and out).
3. The air switches from dash vents to floor under acceleration.
4. A vacuum controlled door switch with green and red vacuum lines controls air movement from dash to floor.

Things I was able to fix last night were:
1. Vacuum leak at connection.
2. Removed pinched vac line and attempt to open allowing vacuum to flow.

After repairs the a/c blows much cooler now but still moves from dash to floor under acceleration. I was not able to trace down the orange vacuum line to know what this controls. I plan on repairing tonight but not sure how this will help.

I suspect a vacuum leak where green and red vacuum lines go...does this sound right or am I missing something?

Thanks for the help
Tim

FordDIY · 07-02-2009, 05:51 AM

Mine did the same thing after having plugs installed - I knew better, should of done it myself, but - anyway......

Found an unhooked vocuum line way up back by the firewall, passenger side, in the engine compartment.

Hope this helps a bit, I think you are on the right path!

TimStout · 07-02-2009, 11:09 AM

Thanks Steve.
I'm going to look more today as well as fix the pinched vacuum line and see what happens.

Tim

vindctar · 07-02-2009, 02:54 PM

My 1996 Windstar has a similar problem of air switching from panel to defrost upon acceleration. This is due to vacuum leak, which I haven't had time to troubleshoot.

Temporary fix: Since, I wanted the air to stay on panel, I unhooked the vacuum control motor (VCM) arm that controls the panel-to-defrost door. In your case, you can do this to the VCM (encirled in red on the attached pic) that controls the panel-to-floor door. This should give you air from the panel only.

Hope this helps.

lonnie · 07-06-2009, 02:12 PM

doesn't matter where the leak is, except that your mission is to find the leak

BroncoJoe19 · 07-06-2009, 02:27 PM

Tim,
You are definitely on the right track. It is possible that your vacuum leak may be under the hood, or in the switch itself!

Checking for vacuum leaks.
Some of the sensors and some of the actuators either read the amount of vacuum, or use vacuum to move controls, therefore it is important to the proper functioning of the engine that your vacuum system is fully intact. Otherwise one may get codes falsely indicating that there is a problem with a controller/actuator, or a sensor when in reality it is caused by a lack of vacuum.

Look at your rubber vacuum hoses (they are about 1/4 - 3/8 inches in diameter, if they are dry rotted or cracked, replace them. IF they slip on/off of their connectors too easily, they may have stretched out a little bit, cut the ends off, and put them back on.

You may listen for a leak. Sometimes using a cut off piece of garden hose is a good aid to listen with. Sometimes a cardboard tube (like from gift wrapping paper) is helpful. Just remember that whenever you stick your head inside a running engine compartment, that you are not wearing any loose clothing or jewelry that can get caught.

Another suggestion is to use a spray can of carb cleaner and spray around the bottom of the intake manifold, and the base of the throttle body assembly. IF there is a leak, you should hear a change in your engine.
Keep a fire extinguisher handy, or use water instead of carb cleaner (it works, but not as well.) Be aware that if you use water and the wires get wet and it runs worse... your wires may be bad, and the water is allowing them to arc instead of jump the gap of the spark plug.

Another suggestion is: to take a propane torch, turn it on (but don't light it) and move it over the vacuum hoses and connections. The engine RPM's will increase if there is a leak and the propane gets sucked in.

Courtesy of TheOldWizard... Don't forget to remind folks to check the PCV valve, hose and grommet !