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Ford Windstar Introduced in the mid-1990s, the front-wheel-drive Ford Windstar minivan campaigned with an emphasis on, and reputation for, safety. And in the hotly contested family minivan market of the time, that was an especially solid piece of ground to be on. As long as buyers didn't need to haul adults in back on a regular basis, the Windstar served a family's needs just fine.

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Old 05-14-2007, 05:45 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raegirl View Post
I am not able to keep the fuse from blowing again either after installing the repair kit. does anyone know how essential it is to have the switch connected to keep the van running well? If I can just disconnect it for now to keep my a/c and speedometer/odometers working w/o causing other problems I'll do that for now since I can't afford major repairs at all!! ahh!
If you leave the switch disconnected you will not be able to disengage your cruise control by tapping the brake pedal. You will have to use the off switch on the steering wheel.
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Old 05-16-2007, 09:49 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mburnett View Post
If you leave the switch disconnected you will not be able to disengage your cruise control by tapping the brake pedal. You will have to use the off switch on the steering wheel.
I'm not sure this is true. I have my brake switch disconnected and the entire cruise control doesn't work, not only brake disengagement.
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Old 05-27-2007, 06:16 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Thank you for the feedback. unfortunately, even leaving it disconnected the fuse continues to blow. I am really at a loss here. The cruise control doesn't work either, the abs light started coming on intermittently since we bought it 8 or 9 months ago and since- about 3 months ago the cruise control started only working intermittently then not at all and then just before I first posted on here is when the fuse problem started with odometer/speedometer/a/c/rearfanblower... If anyone has experienced this problem and replacing the part with the brake repair kit didn't end up helping, can you please tell me what did work and if you had to take it in for repairs approximately how much that cost?
THANK YOU!!!!!!
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Old 05-28-2007, 04:06 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Default What is the metallic/silver box w/small "computer" attachment behind battery?

Ok, so I traced more of the wires that are near the brake pressure switch. Apparently it was spraying brake fluid under the hood because today I noticed the pos side of the battery was covered and this other part right behind where the battery sits was full of brake fluid as well, took it apart and found out that it is fried, but don't know what it is or how much it will cost to replace. the circuit board/computer inside part of this box (which also has small things that look like gears...possibly for odom/speedo...) is packed with gel and one of the circuits coming into it is fried. Does anyone know what this is? Thanks for any help! my manual doesn't have any info on this piece and I don't think I'll be able to afford the part and the repair chiltons type manual...
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Old 05-29-2007, 09:39 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Question Speed control amplifier/servo

Ok, so I figured out what part it is, it's the speed control amplifier and servo. Apparently the amplifier is the computer part of the piece and it has about 8 or 9 wires that lead into it, which got brake fluid on them and so fried two connections & wires inside the amplifier. I have no idea how much this will cost to replace. We were only able to find a '98 amp/servo at the junk yard which doesn't have the same wiring configuration, so it may not work properly which is my biggest concern. This piece is mainly for the cruise control system but also is connected to throttle and braking...SO does anyone have an idea what I'm looking at for repairs (don't care if cruise works as long as the frustrating vehicle is safe to drive)...?
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Old 05-31-2007, 06:01 PM   #26 (permalink)
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hi i had the same problem with fuse 10 on a 2000 winstar van i am so glad you posted this it fixed my problem right away and saved me a trip to the dealer to get it fixed
thank you so much
john
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Old 06-04-2007, 04:28 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Talking 20000 Windstar Fuse #10 Blowing

Thanks a MILLION! for this thread and the exact part I needed to get. It took me more than 20 minutes however it's done. I am sure glad it cost $26 dollars and not what the Dealer would charge. All be known, this was a simple fix. The A/C, Speedometer are back working and that dreaded ABS light is off!!! Yeah!!!

I recommend this fix if you're having this problem with Fuse #10...

Regards,

Cafehech
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Old 06-07-2007, 06:07 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Default # 10 fusr blows out

I looked at the brake pressure switch and it was trenced with brake fluid I removed the connector and replaced #10 fuse and she was a beauty.Saved us alot of money not taking to dealer.Thanks for the info
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Old 06-07-2007, 10:15 PM   #29 (permalink)
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We too had that problem, just got the new brake switch and it worked, and the cruise control that failed 6 months ago before this problem now works as well.
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Old 08-10-2007, 10:23 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Smile 99 Winstart fuse 10 and master cycl sensor

99 Winstar (dealer parts clerk says my vin is actually a 2000 build), 96K+ mi

Failded on a 100+ degree day. I looked at the instruments and discovered that I had lost the speedometer, odometer and set the ABS led in instrument panel. At that point we also, realized that the AC compressor wasn't working as well.

Everything else seemed to be ok. For instance, the transmission lock out relay was still working. It is supposed one of the items thats supposed to be serviced the #10 fuse.

AT first the failure it was intermittent. At a local repair shop tech found and replaced the #10 fuse. After shutting off and restarting 4 times and a road test, they called said it was all set. When I started the van to drive it home, the problem was back. They suggested going to the dealer after another 3 hours of work. Their theory was leaning towards the ABS unit, $750 according to one local FORD service manager.

I found another site late last night that had the same issues discussed in a forum like this and followed the advice given there. Upon checking the break sensor cable found it soaked with brake fluid. For now I have replaced the 10AMP fuse and disconnected the brake sensor cable. I have the speedometer, odometer, AC and NO ABS alarm!

Now I am stepping back for a long look at that life with my Windstar over the last month. I filled the reservoir a week ago and spilled some fluid. Did I cause this problem, is the sensor failing or is the seal between the sensor and the master cylinder leaking? For now I am going to leave the now clean sensor in the master and watch for any leaking. I am wondering this sensor uses a brass or soft aluminum washer as the seal. Some car brake service lines use brass washers as the seals at the disc cylinders. Could the senser need nothing more than tightening. Stay tuned for this work.

I cleaned the sensor and the connector off with alcohol. You can also use any non-soap based cleaner such as WINDEX. You want something that will dissolve the brake fluid and dry without leaving any residue. It you use lacquer thinner or alcohol, DO IT WITH A COLD ENGINE!!! YOU DON'T WANT A FIRE!

I filled a small cup full of cleaner and dipped the cable connector in it for a few minutes. Keep the connector pointing down and let gravity pull any thing in the sockets out. I left the sensor connected to master cylinder and submerged it in another cup of cleaner. I am looking for leak so I am leaving the sensor in place to save the washer if there's one.

This dipping routine works because it's the only way you can clean the both parts safely. You don't want to be lying face up under the car trying to spray the sensor.

If your looking for an owners' manual with the fuse listing, look for the FORD FLEET web site. My 1999 manual has about 234 pages... all free for the downloading.

The other sited had one suggestion, if you don't have a leaking sensor and your blowing this fuse, start looking for a short somewhere other than the brake sensor. The technique is to rigg up a brake light bulb to a blown fuse. Plug it into the fuse outlet. If you have a dim light there is no short. If the light burns brightly, there's a short. and you have start disconnecting hardware until the light goes dim. Then reconnect each unit one at a time until you confirm the failing part.

Good luck and I hope this saves your day.
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