Ford WindstarIntroduced in the mid-1990s, the front-wheel-drive Ford Windstar minivan campaigned with an emphasis on, and reputation for, safety. And in the hotly contested family minivan market of the time, that was an especially solid piece of ground to be on. As long as buyers didn't need to haul adults in back on a regular basis, the Windstar served a family's needs just fine.
I have a 2003 Windstar with 60K. When you step on the gas to accelerate, especially on the freeway to pass, there's basically no response. The van just kinda sits there. Now if I gradually push the pedal time, it will get up to the passing speed and cruise happily along at 70 or 80. This also happens at slower speeds on surface streets, but much less frequently.
No trouble codes or engine light initially. But sometimes when I stop the van once I've gotten where I'm going, the next time I start it up, partway into the drive, the CEL will come on and it will throw a 171 & 174 code. This doesn't happen all the time though.
I've checked for vacuum leaks on my own and even had a garage do a smoke test. No leaks according to them. It's kinda dangerous on the freeway when I go to pass or merge and it won't do it. BTW, I've had the isolator bolts and port seals replaced and had it reflashed a while back. Fuel filter has been changed too. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
A 3.8 with only 60K shouldn't be doing this. And it should be throwing codes. Maybe it's time to have someone else try to pull the codes.
How long ago did you have the isolator bolts replaced? Did the problem exist before that? If so, did the repair make any difference? Is it possible that that repair was faulty in some way.
Yes, the fuel filter was changed within the last 2 months. The isolator bolts/intake seals were replaced just after that. The guy who did it is a perfectionist and I've never had a problem with his work in the past.
The problem existed before the repairs were made. The strange thing is that the 171 & 174 codes appear sporadically and not immediately after the condition occurs. For example, I drove the van on Saturday on the freeway and had the usual lack of acceleration. Later that afternoon, on a separate drive on surface streets, the CEL suddenly came on and it threw the codes. I erased them and have since driven the van on the freeway and quite a bit on surface streets over the last few days. No acceleration again but no codes or CEL either. Doesn't appear to be a tranny problem because it will tool along at high speed once it gets there.
Totally perplexed but open to any suggestions please.
This is strange. I can't immediately link lean burn to excessive back pressure, but you might try doing a back pressure test. If a cat converter has failed and partially plugged, the reduced flow-through can certainly reduce acceleration performance.
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BroncoJoe19
2006 Alt Fuel Jeep (electric)
'98 windstar 3.8L
'99 Crown Vic 4.6L
'90 Full Size Bronco 5.0L
I'm not a professional mechanic, take my suggestions with a grain of salt, or a cup of coffee
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12Ounce, how would one do a pressure test underload?
__________________
BroncoJoe19
2006 Alt Fuel Jeep (electric)
'98 windstar 3.8L
'99 Crown Vic 4.6L
'90 Full Size Bronco 5.0L
I'm not a professional mechanic, take my suggestions with a grain of salt, or a cup of coffee
At the bottom of each post there is a little icon
Clicking it gives feedback to the moderators, and poster regarding which posts are most helpful.
Some of the gauge kits come with hoses ... and hose extenders are available. The idea is to get the gauge head out from under the hood, under a wiper is good ... or duct-taped to the windschield, so that it can be read while driving around.
If I am able to test it under load, will it make a difference a.) where exactly I connect the fuel gauge on the engine or is it good at the relief valve, and b) where I drive the van (i.e., freeway, around town, a combination?) during the test? I assume I can just pull the cowling and run the hose between the hood and the windshield to where I tape my gauge, right?
Thanks in advance for the suggestion. I checked the pressure parked when I keyed it and it was at 38. It's supposed to be between 35-45 according to my specs, so I figured it was good.
The schaeder valve on the fuel rail is the test point. This is the fuel pressure that is presented to the inlet of the fuel injectors. You want to test the pressure as you have a poor acceleration condition.
I suspect the pressure will drop ... showing poor pressure coming from the pump. But if there is no significant pressure drop during a "poor acceleration" ... that is not quite the whole story: It is possible that the inlet screens on the injectors are themselves plugged. Each injector has one, ... a small screen right inside the top of the injector body. By removing the injectors and giving the injector-tops a sideways blast of brake cleaner ... the inlet screens will be unplugged.
Of course, your problem may be unrelated to fuel .... but this is a good starting point.
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No Acceleration 
Hybrid Mode
