2000 Ford Windstar stalling, spitting fluid from exhaust

[TheDolynchuks]

We started out by having intermittent starting issues. It would click like it wanted to turn over, but it would just keep clicking like the starter wasn't firing. We thought it was then the starter solenoid, but it didn't happen again. The last time it happened was Easter 2009.

Recently, the van would start but it would stall when coming to a stop at a stoplight near the house. It proceeded to stall on the way to work for my husband and he managed to get it from work back home. A friend of his from work brought over a computer diagnostic tool to figure out what the issue was and the tool told him that it was an o2 sensor. He took the van to the nearest mechanic, who replaced the sensor but it wasn't the issue. They then ran the van through their diagnostic tool and found out that it could be the mass airflow sensor, but that wasn't it either. The van was at the shop from midday Friday until now because we can't get it home.

It absolutely refuses to start now. When it was here at the house, it would start and stall plus it would spit fluid from the exhaust pipe. The fluid was so rich that it left oil streaks on the driveway, but my husband thinks that it's just really rich fuel.

We were then told that it was the van's computer that needs to be replaced. Is this the case?

[BroncoJoe19]

"Yes sir! It might be your computer!" Is a catch all phrase that is pretty much possibly correct in any "engine doesn't start or run properly" situation. Fortunately it USUALLY isn't the computer.

It could be a vacuum leak, and that is where I would start.

Tips for Checking for vacuum leaks.
Some of the sensors and some of the actuators either read the amount of vacuum, or use vacuum to move controls, therefore it is important to the proper functioning of the engine that your vacuum system is fully intact. Otherwise one may get codes falsely indicating that there is a problem with a controller/actuator, or a sensor when in reality it is caused by a lack of vacuum.

Look at your rubber vacuum hoses (they are about 1/4 - 3/8 inches in diameter, if they are dry rotted or cracked, replace them. IF they slip on/off of their connectors too easily, they may have stretched out a little bit, cut the ends off, and put them back on.

You may listen for a leak. Sometimes using a cut off piece of garden hose is a good aid to listen with. Sometimes a cardboard tube (like from gift wrapping paper) is helpful. Just remember that whenever you stick your head inside a running engine compartment, that you are not wearing any loose clothing or jewelry that can get caught.

Another suggestion is to use a spray can of carb cleaner and spray around the bottom of the intake manifold, and the base of the throttle body assembly. IF there is a leak, you should hear a change in your engine.
Keep a fire extinguisher handy, or use water instead of carb cleaner (it works, but not as well.) Be aware that if you use water and the wires get wet and it runs worse... your wires may be bad, and the water is allowing them to arc instead of jump the gap of the spark plug.

Another suggestion is: to take a propane torch, turn it on (but don't light it) and move it over the vacuum hoses and connections. The engine RPM's will increase if there is a leak and the propane gets sucked in.

Courtesy of TheOldWizard ford-forums... Don't forget to remind folks to check the PCV valve, hose and grommet !

Courtesy Ramnasal ford-forums... Clamp off the hose that runs to the vacuum booster (brake booster) or pull it and plug it. It is possible that the diaphram on the inside of the booster may go bad and cause a vacuum leak.

And one more place that is not always obvious is that the vacuum reserve canister in older vehicles sometimes rots out and leaks, but rarely gets checked. In older vehicles it looks like a metal juice can, in newer vehicles it is made of plastic.

Here are some pictures of some vacuum lines in a 1998 3.8L windstar.
Ford Forums - BroncoJoe19's Album: 3.8L vacuum lines

[TheDolynchuks]

Originally Posted by BroncoJoe19

"Yes sir! It might be your computer!" Is a catch all phrase that is pretty much possibly correct in any "engine doesn't start or run properly" situation. Fortunately it USUALLY isn't the computer.

It could be a vacuum leak, and that is where I would start.

Tips for Checking for vacuum leaks.
Some of the sensors and some of the actuators either read the amount of vacuum, or use vacuum to move controls, therefore it is important to the proper functioning of the engine that your vacuum system is fully intact. Otherwise one may get codes falsely indicating that there is a problem with a controller/actuator, or a sensor when in reality it is caused by a lack of vacuum.

Look at your rubber vacuum hoses (they are about 1/4 - 3/8 inches in diameter, if they are dry rotted or cracked, replace them. IF they slip on/off of their connectors too easily, they may have stretched out a little bit, cut the ends off, and put them back on.

You may listen for a leak. Sometimes using a cut off piece of garden hose is a good aid to listen with. Sometimes a cardboard tube (like from gift wrapping paper) is helpful. Just remember that whenever you stick your head inside a running engine compartment, that you are not wearing any loose clothing or jewelry that can get caught.

Another suggestion is to use a spray can of carb cleaner and spray around the bottom of the intake manifold, and the base of the throttle body assembly. IF there is a leak, you should hear a change in your engine.
Keep a fire extinguisher handy, or use water instead of carb cleaner (it works, but not as well.) Be aware that if you use water and the wires get wet and it runs worse... your wires may be bad, and the water is allowing them to arc instead of jump the gap of the spark plug.

Another suggestion is: to take a propane torch, turn it on (but don't light it) and move it over the vacuum hoses and connections. The engine RPM's will increase if there is a leak and the propane gets sucked in.

Courtesy of TheOldWizard ford-forums... Don't forget to remind folks to check the PCV valve, hose and grommet !

Courtesy Ramnasal ford-forums... Clamp off the hose that runs to the vacuum booster (brake booster) or pull it and plug it. It is possible that the diaphram on the inside of the booster may go bad and cause a vacuum leak.

And one more place that is not always obvious is that the vacuum reserve canister in older vehicles sometimes rots out and leaks, but rarely gets checked. In older vehicles it looks like a metal juice can, in newer vehicles it is made of plastic.

Here are some pictures of some vacuum lines in a 1998 3.8L windstar.
Ford Forums - BroncoJoe19's Album: 3.8L vacuum lines

Thank you so much! We're gonna check that out later today. I called my husband at work and let him know about your suggestion, so he's gonna go over after work to check it out. He said that they did run a smoke test to check for leaks, but he is gonna bring it back up again.