What else would you do for P0301 and P0304?

[12Ounce]

Cyls #1 and #4 ... what is common? Almost nothing. They have different coil packs. But they do both have rather long spark cables .... perhaps the cables are failing? Worth a try if they haven't been replaced yesterday.

Putting injector cleaner in the gasoline will do almost nothing for you. However, removing the injectors and squirting brake cleaner into the injector inlets, giving it a sideways blast, can remove crud that is in the inlet screen. After that, place the injectors upright on a work bench and drop brake cleaner into the inlet until the inlet is full. Left them rest overnight ...or as long as you can afford to.

Keep up with which injector went where ... and move the injectors from #1 and #4 ... to #5 and #6. Now you have them where they can be better accessed.

During all of this procedure, make sure no dirt drops into injector holes. Do some thorough precleaning before removing the injectors. Plug the holes with rolled up wads of paper. Do not soak injectors!! But do wipe them off ... and smear some petroleum jelly on the o-rings before installation.

[phantom_smack]

The only thing is to do the injectors you either have to remove the cowl or intake.

[BroncoJoe19]

Originally Posted by phantom_smack

#1 and #4 egr ports are probably the ony 2 open the rest are clogged causind excess egr gas to flow into these cylinders.When yo go to clean them make sure you replace the isolator bolts and intale o-ring gaskets.

Phantom,
This is a very clever response, one that only comes with experience with that particular engine.

Joehelf,
the P0171 and P0174 are related to vacuum leaks, and that is why phantom suggested replacing the parts that have a tendancy to leak while you have it all apart.

[joehelf]

I will do all that has been suggested so far.
I will spray some light water on the wires and boots to see if I notice any real misfires (noticabel to the naked eye and ear that is).If no response...
I will pull the cowl and the plenum and the intake and change the bolts and gaskets as instructed. While doing this...
I will pull the injectors and use the brake fluid to clean them out. I guess brake fluid must be some real nasty stuff. I remember someone saying if you spill it you want to clean it up quickly because it can damage paint and other things too.
When you say to sit it upright do you mean like it would be sitting on the intake but more straight up and not at an angle like it does when on the engine? Or do you mean to turn it over and put the brake fluid in directly where the gas would be coming out of the injector and into the cylinder? I just want to make sure I understand correctly.
Then before putting injectors back in I will swap them to the #5 & #6 cylinders so to see if the problem still exists in the #1 and #4 cyliders or does it follow the injectors, right?
Last but not least I will change the plug wires. Or should this be my first choice?
Thanks for everyone's help.
BTW did I mention the van has 145,000 miles on it?
The only problem I've had with this van is at 75,000 miles I was having hard shifting from the transmission so I did a complete tranny fluid transfusion (took about 12 quarts) and filter change. At the same time I put in some LUCAS OIL additive for transmissions and it has not had any problems shifting since. Now it is nearly double the mileage so I might do it again just for good measuere.
I'll get back with everyone next week sometime after I've done all my work.
One more thing, where do you suggest I get the gasket kit for the intake job I will be doing? I see where RockAuto is now giving discounts to members but I want to do this starting Monday Nov. 23 and I don't think they can get them here in time.

[12Ounce]

On the injectors: Have them upright and drop the brake cleaner in the inlet/top of the injectors ... the more "upright" you have them, the larger pool of brake cleaner you can have. The brake cleaner will work its way down thru the injectors ... doing a bit of cleaning as it goes. It will move thru some of the injectors quicker than others. If you have time ... do the procedure more than once. And the last procedure use clean motor oil instead of brake cleaner. You've got the plan pretty well understood.

I would make the spark cables one of my first efforts ... but would still do the injectors, its just good maintenance.

[BroncoJoe19]

In your initial post where you stated that you pulled the wires, I didn't know exactly what you meant.

Yes the first thing to check is the wires. Replacing them is a sure fire way to know that they are good. Also, although the #1 wire is the most difficult to get to, it is still the easiest of all jobs mentioned. (except spraying them with water.)

[joehelf]

What I meant about pulling the wires is; I pulled the plug wires off of their plugs at cylinder #1 and #4. Then I would start the motor and could actually see sparks jumping at the boot to the exhaust manifold real rapid like. I was able to see this on both 1 and 4.

[joehelf]

Also one other thing I've done that I did not mention was while listening to the injectors with the rod from my ear, I also pulled the wires off each injector on cylinders 4, 5, and 6
And when I pulled the injector wires off each of these I could hear the motor bog down a little each time. That kind of made me think the injectors were working as they should.

[joehelf]

Quick Update. It's about 8:00pm here in Indiana and I just went out to the van and sprayed some water on the spark plug wires and boots. Sure enough. I saw the spark jumping down by the boot end at the block! Also saw spark jumping near where the #4wire is held down with the manifold wire holder (if that makes sense). I can't wait to go to the automotive store in the morning and buy some plugs and some wires!!

[BroncoJoe19]

Yahoo!!!
Good for you!
Now lets hope that you didn't cause that by pulling the wires initially.