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Ford WindstarIntroduced in the mid-1990s, the front-wheel-drive Ford Windstar minivan campaigned with an emphasis on, and reputation for, safety. And in the hotly contested family minivan market of the time, that was an especially solid piece of ground to be on. As long as buyers didn't need to haul adults in back on a regular basis, the Windstar served a family's needs just fine.
I’m new to this forum, but as I have a 98 Windstar, 3.8L V6 AT with many ‘issues’, I’ll probably be here a bit. I’m an amatuer home mechanic/do-it-yourselfer, and prefer to work on my own vehicles before paying $$$.
Today’s issue is: “Too Lean” Engine Code
The engine light is on, and the guy at AutoZone read the problem code to be ‘Mixture Too Lean’ or something like that (#171 or #174 – can’t remember). This is apparently the only code showing. The only indication of a problem other than the indicator light itself is a slight intermittent stumbling when cruising at relatively low highway speed/low rpms (~50-60 mph & ~1500 rpm). However, the van did this before the engine light came on. The problem is that with this engine indicator code showing, the vehicle will not pass the Maryland state emissions inspection required every 2 years and now due on my van. (Although the emissions could be absolutely A-OK – the state refuses to actually TEST the emissions on 96 or later vehicles!!!). The engine is completely ‘stock’, except that I have installed Autolite Double Platinum plugs in all 6 cylinders.
Questions: What sensor gives the “Too Lean” reading? (i.e. O2, CO2???) What could be causing a “Too Lean” condition, or just the “Too Lean” signal??? What are some possible fixes? Thanks for any assistance.
Windstars are famous for this problem. I had the same happen to me. Found the solution here http://leckemby.net/windstar/windstar01.html
Did the work myself, and I didn't remove the cowling either.
No more codes.
This is a terrific article/link, with detailed procedures, excellent photos and links to the Tech Svc Bulletin images. I'll be doing this work in the coming weeks. Thanks for your response!
Good luck. I have an 03 with P0171 and P0174 codes and am looking to do the same procedure in the next few weeks.
I was also advised to run some injector cleaner through a couple tanks of gas, not sure if that will help as all seem to point to a vacuum leak...but it never huts to try...
Keep in touch and let us know how it goes. I will do the same.
I haven't had the time to do the isolator bolt replacement yet, but will have to get it done within the next few weeks due to the MD emissions testing requirement. I tried injector cleaner, and will not do it again. At first no difference, but by the end of the treated tank and into the next untreated tank, the engine ran like sh-t. Chugging, stalling etc.. Back to normal now, but I still have the engine light on.
Please keep the board posted with your experience. Thanks.
I replaced those bolts about a year ago thanks to that web site.
Also I advise while you have upper part apart clean the manifold butterflies and manifold itself. I use throttle body cleaner and toothbrush to do butterflies and shafts.
Did the infamous P0171-P0174 fix a week ago. So far no return of the CEL (it would always come back within 4-5 days) so I am feeling hopeful.
It was an easy job, just take your time (3 hours including beer break) and definitely have a toothbrush and some carb cleaner to clean out the EGR ports and butterfly valves.
Did not remove the cowling, just had a friend pry up gently on it. You just have to wiggle the top part of the plenum out, strangely it goes back in a LOT EASIER.
Lay out all the parts, have the "leckemby.net" instructions printed out and handy, and it goes real smooth.
Glad to see this fix is working. Unfortunately, I'm back to square one with the "Too Lean" code on my vehicle. When I went to buy the replacement isolater bolts and other parts, I discovered that they would not fit my vehicle, and in checking the Ford Tech Services Bulletin realized this fix is for 1999 and later 3.8L engines with the two piece plastic intake manifold. The article on the P171/174 fix link just references the 3.8L V6 engine, and does not mention what model years are affected. But this fix is only for 1999 and later motors. And this is mentioned on the attached TSB.
My vehicle is a 1998 model with a metal one-piece intake manifold, and apparently there are no problems with this design. Something other than the split plastic manifold/isolator bolt problem is causing the "Too Lean" codes on my vehicle.
So once again, I would appreciate any help from anyone with insight into this problem on pre-1999 3.8L V6 engines.
I can't help diagnose your vehicle problem, but I will suggest that you visit the inspection station nearest your home, explaining your problem AND carry all the receipts for parts and/or supplies you've bought while attempting to correct this problem. I lived near Annapolis for 20 yrs and when one of my vehicles had a problem the local mechanics couldn't seem to find, the manager would write a variance for my problem and pass my vehicle "with exception." I think I had to do that twice during all those years. Take along a 2nd complete set (xerox copied) of all your receipts so the manager can attach that paper trail to the variance he/she MIGHT choose to write. Be really nice to the manager and tell him/her you've worked yourself mad going from one mechanic to another, besides attempting to do all your manual suggests, but have not been able to solve the problem. Use these words "Sir, I really need some help because I don't know what else to do. I've tried everything. Can you help me? Can you tell me what to do next?" (oh, try to look really pitiful......that helped me) If you live near Annapolis, go to that inspection station. I can't remember the address, but its near the Mall (off Rt 50) a couple miles down a road directly across from the mall entrance....or it used to be. All the employees are super nice and helpful, besides that station is fast. I was always out of there in under 20 minutes. Good luck.
I made the mistake an took my van in for service before I found out what codes caused the check engin light. The shop said I needed a Gromment and the "Idle Air Control Valve". It cost me $423.00. Not even a week later the light came back on. Now the shop said that it is a Code PO171 & PO174 and will cost me about $600.00 to fix. If you do the work yourself or pay someone else to it go to AutoZone or Checker and have them check for codes. Once the computer has been cleared you have nothing to fall back on.
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