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Heating, Air Conditioning & Cooling Systems Does your heater blow cold air? Does your air conditioning blow hot air? Post your all of your technical issues related to your heating, heating core, air conditioning unit and controls here. Don't wait until it is to late to get these important vehicle functions fixed.

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Old 11-02-2009, 10:46 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Most likely rusted impeller, not electrolysis.

Sounds to me like a flow issue, and as stated above, rusted impellers common on Taurus/Sable 3.0. I would pull the pump. Surprised your not experiencing any engine overheat.

Electrolysis loves to attack aluminum heat exchangers, causing them to leak. Please do not add any grounding wires to any heaters or radiators. This has been know to accelerate electrolysis.
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Old 11-04-2009, 10:34 AM   #12 (permalink)
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See, now this is what drives me nuts......Just when I'm convinced that it could be the Water Pump, my father in-law who works as the manager at the Body side of a Ford dealership sent my wife this reply.....

"KIMBA,
I talked with one of our techs and he said if the car is not overheating with the thermostat in the water pump is ok. he said even though you think you have good flow through the core it really is not flowing correctly. Heater cores are replaced frequently on his car.
They will charge you $95.00 here to give you this information
Love ya Dad"

This is driving me NUTS........How is it when you can hook up the garden hose and run the water through the heater core both ways...still called "clogged"??

I'm afraid to do the freaking water pump now....

Last edited by guerinos; 11-04-2009 at 10:48 AM..
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Old 11-04-2009, 10:48 AM   #13 (permalink)
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The pump will flow just enough to keep the engine somewhat cool. You can not rely on the dash temp gauge....it's more of a switch, idiot light, than a gauge.
I have replaced many Taurus water pumps that look like the picture below. Some had the impeller completely gone...they WERE overheating.
Thanks to boyscout for the picture

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Old 11-05-2009, 06:54 AM   #14 (permalink)
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how about this as an idea......what if I kink the bypass hose and take it out for a drive......if the pump is worn, wouldn't the high rev of the engine force the coolant into the core??
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Old 11-06-2009, 10:23 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Ok, I gone home from work in the car, and when I got home I went to the garage and grabbed a pair of vise grips and kinked the bypass line. I then took the car out for a drive with the bypass still kinked.....the temp gauge was normal, and when i turned on the heat.....nothing. Lifted the hood and checked the return hose from the heater core, and it seemed warm.

You know, I can hear & see the actuator motor of the blend door moving, but now I'm starting to wonder if the axle shaft on the door is broken????

I'm really confused here......
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Old 11-06-2009, 10:51 AM   #16 (permalink)
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I was taught that putting ground wire actually speeds up the process by give the component a direct path to ground.(this is opposite what we were taught 10 years ago.
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Old 11-06-2009, 12:23 PM   #17 (permalink)
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It seems to me that if you did this...
I then did this...I took off the output hose of the heater hose while keeping the kink on the bypass hose just to see if flow coming out.....but the enging was too hot, and the thermostat was open and wasnt getting flow.
and you weren't getting any flow, the problem is in the pump.

Regarding another question you asked some where in here, how could the heater have good flow, and still be clogged? You may have 150 tubes in the core, but only need 20 tubes clear for good flow. In this case the core would be working at a mere 15% capacity.
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Old 11-07-2009, 06:30 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guerinos View Post
Ok, I gone home from work in the car, and when I got home I went to the garage and grabbed a pair of vise grips and kinked the bypass line. I then took the car out for a drive with the bypass still kinked....
The bypass line you are kinking is the heater bypass hose located on fire wall? Same as this pic? Or bypass hose on engine?
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